Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Winter waves
The winter surf in Ireland and the UK is something else. Turned up to a spot today with pounding double overhead waves and howling offshore wind, freezing conditions and one lonesome charger out at the worlds edge. Paddling out you're stoked to know the guy in the lineup and realising it's a whole lot bigger, faster and choppier than appeared from the van. You get less waves, and its colder than in some places, but when that heavy peak rears up hugs the reef and you make the drop and rattle along the face....it truly doesn't matter!
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